Sunday, July 22, 2012

Necessary Night Cap


Awoke this evening just as the sun was setting.  I lay there trying to kick my brain into gear hoping my body would follow. The first mental challenge I grappled with through the stickiness of halfwake was “do I have enough drinking water to make it through the night and if not, can I get up and going down to market fast enough before it becomes completely dark and unsafe for me to go out?”  The thought of not having clean drinking water was enough to get me up and going.  I am constantly drinking water and it is constantly eeking out of my skin – I just can’t get enough of it, drinking at the expense of food.  Opening the door, checking the hall way - the coast was clear for me to walk around in my culturally revealing shorts and tank top, down to the community kitchen to check my water bottle supply in the frig.  Drat!!!  Down to half a bottle!!  I would have to go out and I would have to go fast.

Vrindavan is the Holy City of HindusKrishna, a major Hindu god, was born in Mathura, the city next door, but he and his best girlfriend Radu, played here in Vrindavan.  There are over 5000 Hindu temples, and it’s a huge Mecca for pilgrims, and Hindu devotees.  The surge in Hindu militants has made it a particularly dangerous place for Christians after dark, or even alone during the day in secluded areas, if you happened to be unlucky enough to run into a group of them bent on causing trouble. 

And today, Vrindavan was filled with twice as many devotees and pilgrims as people poured into the holy city from as far away as Delhi to celebrate “Hariyaly Teej” or the “Greenery Festival” after the first monsoons awakened the dry dusty earth with an explosion of green.  I had walked downtown this afternoon with Sandeep Peters to map out the way to our accountant’s office along the narrow, twisting unmarked pathways of Loi Bazaar – in the heart of Vrindavan.  And while it was siesta break time and the streets relatively quiet, it was obvious the city was preparing for a huge influx of crowds that evening; barriers and police were everywhere, makeshift watering stalls, colorful venders, families sleeping on the roadsides and street side foods more than usual.  Even the locals warned of staying away from the city tonight, when the real festivities begin, under the cooling cloak of darkness.

The walk down to the city and back put me in a good mind for my own siesta, and so I crashed and woke up just as the sun was going down, thinking of water.  I made it safely down to the market and back with plenty of water for the night, but wishing I was brave enough to join the chaotic throngs of festival goers in the heart of Vrindavan.

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